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At Balmain, which was almost exclusively black and white, the more memorable iterations consisted of newsprint-style printing on dresses and trousers. At Givenchy, where Clare Waight Keller made her debut as artistic director, it was clover prints and leopard spots from the label’s ’80s-era archives. A different creature — the python — made for a slinky black-and-white print at Elie Saab’s Amazon-inspired collection. For his Paris Fashion Week debut, U.S.-based designer Joseph Altuzarra presented a collection inspired by the film “Princess Mononoke,” which included a range of black-and-white pieces such as a bandanna print dress, striped skirts and jackets and cow-print leather jacket pockets. The traditionally low-profile black-and-white houndstooth check pattern seemed to be enjoying its moment in the Parisian sun, getting sliced and diced and rejiggered in different sizes at Alexander McQueen and blown up to fuzzy extremes for a wrap jacket carried by a model in Thom Browne’s dreamscape of a show on the final day of the shows. A flock of feathers and a festival of fringe AFP / Getty, left and right, Ian Langson / EPA, center Looks from Altuzarra, left, Nina Ricci and Céline. Looks from Altuzarra, left, Nina Ricci and Céline. (AFP / Getty, left and right, Ian Langson / EPA, center) Feathers and fringe were used for the same purpose through many of the spring and summer 2018 collections — telegraphing and accentuating movement. Anthony Vaccarello’s collection for Saint Laurent did the ostrich-feather thing right with delicate high heels accentuated with feathers that quivered at the ankle like airborne sprays of ink and knee-length “yeti boots” that despite resembling the Abominable Snowman’s hairy leg managed to be damn sexy. One that didn’t was the costumey gendarme-goes-to-the-circus Nina Ricca collection, in which the towering feathered headdresses made the models look like, as my seatmate put it, “a refugee from a Folies Bergère matinee.” Fringe swung, swayed and swirled sensuously through so many collections we honestly couldn’t begin to list them all, but two of the standouts were Céline, where fringetastic bags, shoes and dresses bounced and shimmied down the runway, and Elie Saab, where the aforementioned rainforest-inspired collection included a jungle-flora-inspired dress on which the dangling fringe took the form of green, leafy vines.
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